Some repair / testing tips to verify this is the part you need:
The usual customer complaint for this problem is the customer hears a clicking sound, the refrigerator is running, but not getting cold, or my refrigerator is getting warm. To properly do this testing you will need a multimeter to run a power test on the wires that plug into the compressor. You will also need a continuity option on your multimeter to test for a short in your compressor.
I will tell you now that if you are hearing a clicking sound you can skip this next paragraph and jump to the short test on the compressor. First you will need to gain access to the compressor compartment by removing the back cover using either a 1/4 in. nut driver or a 5/16 in. nut driver. Once you've gained access to the compressor area check to see if the condensor fan is runnning. If the condensor fan is running then you should have power to the relay mounted on the side of the compressor and your compressor should be running. If the condensor fan is not running then you will need to track the wires back to the source that is sending it and find out where the power is stopping. If the fan is running and the compressor is not, there is a cover on the side of the compressor where the relay is located. (note: if you've already had a repair person stop on the refrigerator and you find a hard start relay already hooked up then you will need a new compressor.) Unplug the refrigerator, remove the cover, and get your multimeter set to an acv setting. Plug the refrigerator in and test power at the wires that plug into the relay.
Testing for a short in the compressor: If you get power unplug the refrigerator again, set your multi-meter to a continuity setting. Using a flat head screwdriver scratch off some paint from the compressor. Now with one probe place on the bare spot you scratched off of the compressor and the with the other you will run to each terminal coming out of the compressor. Here you are testing for a short in the compressor you do not want to get a reading from the bare spot to any of the terminals. If you do then you will need a new compressor. If you don't get a reading then purchase the 410 hard start and it should get you going. There is no guarantee that it will keep running, it's just a cheaper alternative chance to take that may save you a lot of money on the purchase of a new refrigerator.
Some of the causes of this the original relay going out are low freon, really dirty coils that block the air flow that cools the compressor, or the compressor itself is pumping harder than it should. So make sure before you put your refrigerator back into regular use to clean the coils thoroughly using a sweeper and a dryer vent brush, or by blowing them out with an air compressor which is much easier. An easy test for the freon is once you have your new relay on you will need to let it run for about 15 minutes and then you can feel the small copper or steel line coming out of the compressor for heat output. If the line is getting hot to the touch then there is enough freon in the system. If it only gets luke warm after it has ran for a while then you need to call a technician to gas it back up. Hope this article has helped.
Here is a video showing you how to test the compressor and relay:
Whirlpool Refrigerator 410 Hard Start Relay | Refrigerator Clicking, Not Cooling? We can help!
Our cost is $16.00, has a 1 year warranty, and free shipping! We show you how to diagnose that the 410 hard start relay that is used by most repairmen when the original relay fails will work for you. We are open Monday - Friday 9 A.M. - 5 P.M. and Saturday 9 A.M. - 12 P.M. eastern standard time. Let us know if you have any questions during business hours you can give us a call at 260-563-0147 and we will help you in any way we can. If you are shopping after hours you can submit your question to our on line form on our contact us page and we will get back to you during the next business day.